Kind Compass

Arriving in Tromsø

We landed around 8pm, collected the hire car, checked into the loveliest Airbnb and did the classic late-night supermarket run. On the way back we stopped at Prestvannet, the big frozen lake on the hill overlooking Tromsø. It’s one of the best in-town northern lights spots thanks to low light pollution and altitude.

We waited for a few hours in the freezing cold, chatting to an American couple who kept hopping into our car to warm up. They used our car to get warm and then I drove them back to their hotel. No aurora that night, but it was a really wholesome moment.

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Snowmobiles in the Lyngen Alps

The next morning we drove 1.5 hours out to the Lyngen Alps for a snowmobile adventure. The scenery is unreal — crisp mountains, frozen lakes and soft winter light. My friend managed to tip us straight into a pile of snow and we had to be dug out, which we’re still laughing about.

Afterwards we tried to go up the Fjellheisen cable car, but the car park was completely full, so definitely visit early morning or later in the evening.

We ended the day at Grotfjord with hot chocolates and watched our first little flicker of Norwegian aurora across the fjord.

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Kvaløya – One of the Highlights

This day was all about Kvaløya, and it was honestly one of the highlights of the whole trip.

Colourful little fishing huts, tiny churches, icy beaches, still fjords, and barely anyone around. We explored all day, crossed the iconic Sandnessund Bridge with its amazing views, made snow angels, and wandered along a beach that was the coldest place I’ve ever been.

Driving note:
The roads were snowy and a bit skiddy in places, so just take it steady if you’re not used to driving in winter conditions. Hire cars don’t have studded tyres — just slightly deeper tread — so you still need to drive with caution.

At one point my Reynaud’s kicked off badly and I physically couldn’t press the unlock button — my friend had to open the car for me while I stood there crying from the pain. Thank god for heated seats and a heated steering wheel.

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Fjellheisen at Sunset

We finally made it up Fjellheisen. The view from the top is unreal — Tromsø glowing below with mountain layers stretching out behind. We hiked up to the highest viewpoint and watched the city light up. A faint aurora drifted behind us.

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Sámi Reindeer Experience

The next morning was the Sámi reindeer experience, which I absolutely loved.

The Sámi are the only people allowed to keep reindeer in the Tromsø region, and their whole way of life is connected to their herds. We learnt how they follow and protect the reindeer, how antlers naturally fall off every year, and how they check the reindeers’ teeth — when the teeth become too worn down, the animals wouldn’t survive the winter, so they’re respectfully culled and every part is used so nothing is wasted. Feeding them in the snow was such a special moment.

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Movika Morning – Filming for Luna Therapies

That morning we drove to Movika, one of the calmest, most peaceful places we visited. I filmed some videos for Luna Therapies — reflections on the lake, snow textures, the sound of the water. We even found raw crystals on the pebble beach.

After Movika we drove home, dropped off the car, then jumped on the bus into Tromsø for the evening.

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Cocktails, Ice Bar & Souvenir Shopping

In town we explored the harbour, wandered shops, bought too many souvenirs, visited the ice bar, and found a cosy café that served espresso martinis with olives and nuts. Perfect combination.

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Northern Lights Tour – Campfire & Sky Show

That night we joined a full northern lights chase. We came back around 3am smelling like campfire. The sky in Norway is so dark — you can see the whole Milky Way — and then the aurora burst into life. Bright, fast, dancing. Absolutely unforgettable.

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Arctic Cathedral & Goodbye

On our final morning we walked over the bridge to the Arctic Cathedral (Ishavskatedralen) — the iconic triangular church. Beautiful views across Tromsø from there. Then it was off to the airport.

Norway honestly blew me away. The landscape, the cold, the quiet, the culture, the aurora… everything was stunning.